The views on the western side of the Kenai Peninsula are vast and inspiring. The expansive images do not do justice to being there, whether looking out across the Cook Inlet to the range of active volcanoes or simply looking beyond the end of the land across the bay in Homer. It was for this reason, and the fact that my last journey to Homer back in 2020 was pretty much fogged in for two days, that I wanted to return to spend some time exploring Soldotna, Kenai, Ninilchik and Homer. These couple of days before having to return the campervan to Anchorage provided such an opportunity.
In my last post, I mentioned how I felt drawn to the Diamond M Ranch and
RV Park for these 3 nights of solo camping. It proved to be the
perfect location to set up as a home base to explore the area, as well
as keep me a bit further north when time to head to Anchorage on
Wednesday afternoon.
Making a leisurely morning of it, Monday started with a wonderful shower and then breakfast. It was wonderful to have the fixings for one more pancake breakfast on the road. I was feeling better than the day before and optimistic about what the day might bring.
After breakfast I visited Ronna (the owner at the campground) to take care of my campsite fees. She suggested I check out the Soldotna Homestead Museum as well as the City of Kenai Visitor Center. Unfortunately with it being Memorial Day, both were closed, but I still make the most of my time in the area.
Heading north out of Soldotna was the Kenai National Wildlife Refuge visitor center. Like most, there were several nice exhibits both inside and out, but with the rain, I spent my time inside.
I then headed a bit further north to the western entrance to the Skilak Wildlife Area, a part of the Kenai National Wildlife Refuge. David & I had camped there the summer of 2020 . . . the year after there were devastating fires in the area. I was curious to see how the forest had started its rejuvenation and whether or not wildlife might be visible from the narrow two-lane gravel road. While the views were lovely on the 19 mile loop road, I didn't see any wildlife during my time there.
I did enjoy having lunch at this overlook before heading out and back towards town and further south to Kenai. This small city was the highlight of my day!
The Kenai Visitor Center had a number of large exhibits out on their front lawn area, so I spent some time learning about the history of fishing and how industry grew, developing this region. But before industry flourished, the fishing communities in this region were largely settled by Russians. Their history is still present through the ancestors who remained in Alaska after the United States acquired it through what was known as Seward's Folly in 1867. Folly indeed! I'm happy for the $7M purchase.
Old Town Kenai is home to one of the most beautiful Russian settlements in Alaska. This first photo is of the Chapel of St. Nicholas built in 1906, honoring the first priest in Kenai who brought the small pox vaccine saving the lives of hundreds of Dena'ina. It was built on the ground where the original 1849 church had stood.The Holy Assumption Orthodox Church was built between 1894 & 1896. A simple, wood-frame structure with clapboard siding, Holy Assumption Church features a square two-story bell tower and a distinctive crown-shaped cupola, both with the three-bar Orthodox Cross. Of particular interest to historians is the interior.
The icons, religious
artifacts, and historic objects are important not only for their
connection to the specific structure, but for the larger symbolic
association with the Russian Orthodox faith. In addition to being the
oldest standing Orthodox Church in Alaska, it is an excellent example of
Pskov (ship or vessel) design. For its exceptional value in our
Nation’s history, the Secretary of the Interior designated Holy
Assumption Church a National Historic Landmark in 1970. SOURCEThe next morning, I would stop and visit the Transfiguration of Our Lord Church, another historic Russian Orthodox Church, located in Ninilchik (about 30-40 minutes north of Homer). While widely popular with tourists, this church is in much need of some TLC and renovation. Sitting high atop a hillside, overlooking the old fishing village, the view across the Cook Inlet includes four active volcanoes.
While in Homer on Tuesday, I stopped by the beach to walk around a bit and have lunch. (Sorry I didn't get the name of the beach, but I think it may have been Bishop's Beach Park.) The tide was out, but working its way back in. I didn't want to venture too far away from the parking lot or out into the shoreline, but I did enjoy the fresh air and sea breeze.
While out on the beach, a GAH/SAP Minnie Winnie with an RV2AK decal parked next to me. I was giddy with delight, hoping to have the opportunity to meet my fellow travelers. Here I am with Tony & Michelle!
As I was leaving the beach park, this moose ambled across the road right in front of me. I was of course happy to let it cross while snapping a photo or 2.
I seemed to rebound well however, and didn't let the temporary setback put a damper on my day!
One of my more humorous moments in Homer was when I used TOOTS (my Garmin GPS) to find local places to see & visit. She found the "Kilcher Homestead Living Museum" as an historical attraction. It sounded right my alley, so I set it to get me there. Imagine my shock when I arrived to this point. The sign you can't read on the left basically says "NO RVs - TURN AROUND AND GO BACK." I had gone probably 15 miles out of town to get here, only to be turned away as I wasn't going to hike in.
Back in town with further research on my cell phone, I learned the Kilcher Family are the stars of the Discovery reality series Alaska: The Last Frontier. I felt like a bit of a dope, having channel surfed through the show once or twice and feeling like the series was some bogus "made for TV" hype show capitalizing on the fascination with life in Alaska. I never watched a full episode, so I totally missed the connection with the family name.
That said, my journey up into the wilderness above Homer afforded me a random encounter with a moose and her very young (and tiny) twin calves. She was very protective of them as I approached where they were, so I gave her a wide berth and didn't attempt to take any photos from the camper. But it was cool to see them and have that image in my memory from my time in Homer.
One of the other local experiences I had while in this area of Alaska was the pull tab store. While shopping at Safeway in Kenai, I noticed the storefront across the parking lot. Pam & I had seen pull tab stores elsewhere, but never went in to see what they were about.
With my curiosity piqued, and time on my hands, I ventured in to check it out. I met a lovely local woman Michelle, who told me how the pull tabs work here in Alaska. Of course I had to give them a try . . . after all they support a local 501(c)3 charity doing work for local senior citizens. I started like it always begins . . . $20 initial buy-in. Win a few, cash them in for more. Win a couple more, added another $20 to play. Eventually, all $40 is gone but it was fun . . . and the only gambling expense I had on my entire vacation. I feel I actually got off pretty cheaply. But more importantly, I met and made a new friend!
TO BE CONTINUED - RETURNING TO ANCHORAGE!
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